Uttarakhand 2018, an unruly account
There’s a lot to share about this place and my experience with it (including pictures), so I figured I write this piece. If you’re expecting some suggestions on how to plan a trip to Uttarakhand, this is not going to be a very helpful read.
I want to begin by thanking my beautiful colleague who happens to be a Delhi girl and decides to get married in Delhi, for which I happened to be invited. This being in Feb, with the northern winter and a fresh set of yearly paid leaves in hand, I think of making an extended holiday out of it. After 2 days of her power-packed Punjabi Shaadi and another day of chilling with my cousins and friends, we took the Dehradun Shatapdi express to Dehradun. Also, when in Delhi, you must go for one of the jazz gigs at The Piano Man near Hauz Khas village.
So, why Uttrakhand from Delhi, there are tons of other options, you ask? Because it was all last-minute, my best friend knew about this super-fast chair car direct train to Dehradun. That was it, didn’t give it any more thought.
Dehradun
Got here at noon, we hadn’t booked any stay and were fairly clueless. The station rickshaw guy came to our rescue and drove us to this decent hotel, majestic something. It was decent enough to crash at night at an even more decent tariff. Our job was done. After hogging the decent lunch there, we headed out. Wandered for a bit and then took a rickshaw to the Tibetan Market because that showed up first in our google search for ‘places to check out in Dehradun.’ However, it wasn’t as indigenous as it sounds.
Then was the time to meet my baby cousin who studies communication design at UPES, Dehradun. This after almost 5+ years of no see. We grabbed dinner at this amazing pizza place on Mussoorie road called Big Bee’s. The rest of the night was spent catching up on lost memories from our days of growing up together. Sorry if I sound a bit poetic here, but thanks for doing this little one. I’m in awe of the grown-up you’ve now become.
Mussoorie
My cousin and I said our goodbyes as I headed to Mussoorie in the morning in a private cab. Rewinding a little, we booked our stay for Mussoorie just a day in advance, while we were in Dehradun. This place called Seegreen Lodges in Hathipaon, Mussoorie was a friend’s recommendation. Due to an absolute lack of time and other options, we went for it without further ado. We’re glad we did.
Hathipaon is technically a few kilometers ahead of main Mussoorie. By this I mean you will be away from most of the spots that show up in your search for ‘places to check out in Mussoorie.’ The moment we got there, we knew we’ll have nothing to regret. At first, Seegreen Lodges looks like that little home in the mountains you built log by log in your dreams. It’s nestled in between the George Everest peak, Cloud End and Mall road. You can rent a cab or a bike to visit these spots or just hike up. I recommend you do the latter, as we did. This too was impromptu. Without proper trekking shoes or enough layers to guard against the freezing temperature, we decided to conquer our Everest with our tiny backpacks and the DSLR. We covered Cloud End on day 1 and George Everest on day 2. Best experience ever!
The fact that we were so terribly unplanned worked out for us because we found ourselves in deep love with Seegreen Lodges (the pictures will tell you why). We had paid for only a night but wanted to extend. However, they were fully booked for the next day, of course. So right when we were bidding farewell to this wonderful place, the owner, this warm person named Vicky came up to us with a sudden cancellation. The packed bags were moved back to the room and we knew the mountains didn’t want us to leave yet. A young couple from Bombay with their cute 2 year old moved into the adjoining room that day. Later in the evening after our hike, we got talking and the night was spent pulling hukkah and drinking their Japanese whiskey in the bone-chilling weather.
This place has its own quaint little café below with an outside seating where we ate most of our meals, and it has Gudvir, the cook. I wanted to take him home but he refused, no surprises there. Everything on their menu is cooked beyond perfection and expectation. Must haves: The parathas for breakfast, the sandwiches and coffee while you are reading, tucked in one of the many pretty corners of this place. And the star-studded makke-ki-roti and sarso-da-saag wala dinner is unmissable.
Seegreen Lodges is a home in the mountains you never had. They’re the best in offering silence, so pristine that you’ll be surprised such a vacuum even exists. Find your sweet spot at the balcony with the stupendous view, the veranda, lobby or the café and while away time reading, writing, sketching or doing your thing that you usually don’t find the time for. This, while taking in the soulfulness of everything this place has to offer.
(I assure you that this post is not sponsored).
Rishikesh
Post some terribly tough goodbyes, Salim (our private cab guy throughout the trip), drove us to Rishikesh, roughly a 3 hour drive from Mussoorie. Again, we hadn’t booked any hotel. We checked out the first pretty looking hotel on the main market road and took it. ‘The Peepal Tree’ turned out fancier than expected and we got it at a price that was way cheaper than what was listed online. Yayy! As it was the last day of our trip, we checked in our bags, rented an Activa for the day and set out to the other side of Rishikesh via the Ram Jhula. This other side of the town is where all the Aashrams and cool cafes are (as we were told).
Anywho, remember the super chilled out couple we hung out with in Mussoorie? They strongly recommended we check out The Little Buddha Café when in Rishikesh. God, may they be blessed! Located on the first floor of a shady eatery amidst a tiny street, The Little Buddha Café is far from a first timers’ idea of Rishikesh. Imagine a shack on one of the most preserved beaches of South Goa, only better. It opens to the most spectacular view of The Lakshman Jhula sprawling over The Ganges. Their pizza, sandwiches and shakes will put most of our swanky big city cafes to shame. All this with an envious playlist of Indian fusion music for the complete experience (check out the Midival Punditz).
Then of course, we wanted to check out the Beatles Aashram but on getting there at 5.30, we understand that it shuts at 5. Bummer! Probably the only regretful experience during the trip. With a little bit of the evening and the entire night in hand, we end up ‘Ganga Kinare.’ Witnessed a beautiful sunset while sitting on a rock with my feet soaked in the Ganges and mind absorbed in a symphony, birthed by the melodious fusion of the many evening prayer calls from the many nearby ghats. Just when we get up to leave, we are caught by an incessant ‘howling’ sound emerging from a group of foreign yogis sitting on the riverbank. Curious, we approach and see them happily howling away at the rise of the full moon. Like a glorious celebration of sorts. Just then, we knew we’re not leaving anytime soon. We sat with them for 2+ hours, enjoying their satsang, sang to the tune of a hang drum, meditated with them and listened to a gripping narration of the Ashtavakra Geeta by their guru. I cannot possibly do justice to this experience in words, but it makes a classic case for being in the right place at the right time, and how!
We grabbed dinner at The Little Buddha Café, again, then crossed over the Jhula to go to our hotel on the other side, trying to battle the sadness unfolding within, telling me that this was it, tomorrow its time to go back.
The more I try to identify the purpose of writing this post, I realize that there’s absolutely none. I don’t do this after all my vacations, but again, not all turn out to be a series of unexpected, shabbily planned, confusingly surprising events, coming together to make one hell of a trip. I wouldn’t call it a ‘memorable trip.’ I don’t have/need memory to re-live it. It’s like a whole new living, breathing part of me, either that or I’ve left some traces of what I used to be back in those mountains, I think I’ll never know.
